Dubrovnik

Whether we were climbing the city's panoramic, fort walls or diving off the rocky cliffs of little nearby islands, every moment we were in Dubrovnik we found something amazing to do.

This is a city that you will never get bored of and while there are tourist activities galore, for me it was the War Photo Limited exhibition that found its way to the top of my must see list. In a time when Croatia is enjoying a rapid rise in tourism and a particular popularity with those there purely for the beautiful beaches and nightlife, this exhibition was a sobering reminder of the region's complex and devastating history. With a series of stunning images by a range of world renowned photo journalists, I would challenge any traveller to leave unmoved or uninspired.

While the breathtaking natural beauty and fascinating history of Dubrovnik had already well and truly won me over, the fact that we literally didn't have a bad meal the entire time, firmly cemented it as one of my favourite places of the whole trip.

Every random cafe and restaurant we wandered into in both Split and Dubrovnik delivered absolutely amazing food, from mussels coated in rich tomato and garlic sauce to the perfectly crisp and insanely generous pizzas, so big that they overflowed off the edge of our giant plates. I'm just going to say it, I had better pizza in Croatia than I did in Italy. I know, blasphemy, but it's true. And while Italy still holds the best gelato title, we definitely had to search much harder for the kind of amazing meals that we continuously stumbled upon in Croatia.

Almost every person we met on our travels had either been to Croatia or was on their way and after nothing but rave reviews, our expectations were high. However we were absolutely not disappointed and instead completely devastated to leave, and already desperate to go back.

Split

Even after arriving in Split at the crack of dawn, fresh off an overnight ferry, it didn't take me long to find a hundred reasons why I never wanted to leave.

The early start gave us the unexpected treat of stumbling upon the fish markets which are only open for a few hours of the morning till about 10 am. Just through the open doorframe you'll find giant slabs of stone acting as rows of tables, all covered in glistening plies of squid, buckets of prawns and huge tunas being sliced into steaks right in front of you. The markets are officially located on Neretvanska Ulica and following your nose towards the pungent smell of the sea that wafts through the far side of the old town is definitely worth it.

Amazing seafood was a theme that continued throughout our stay and Split absolutely delivered some of the best meals of the entire trip. If you're on a budget and looking for a quick delicious meal, Fife was the recommendation of almost everyone we spoke to. Packed with locals and with massive portions of a range of simple and fresh seafood, it definitely lived up to its reputation with our waitress even running across the road to buy us a block of local chocolate (free of charge!) when we found out they were out of dessert.

Our next amazing discovery was a more hidden restaurant called Konoba Varoš which we found on Ban Maldenova just out of the old town where Fife and most of the cheaper and less touristy places were located.

This is definitely a place for sharing which is perfect because the menu is filled with so many delicious sounding possibilities that making a decision, as an already indecisive person, was torture. But despite my food envy of the massive seafood platters around us, and the boys' stuffed veal snitchel, my cuttlefish risotto was possibly the best thing I've ever eaten. While dinner was slightly pricier than our usual picnic meals, it was still amazing value for the insanely good Dalmatian specialities that you get.

When we weren't eating, we found ourselves exploring Split's beautiful coastline, whether it was climbing up to Prva vidilica look out point, or following the trend of avoiding the harbour side man made beaches and instead lying out on the rocky cliffs' edge, lounging in the sun with a few of the stray cats that seemed to own the city.

Wandering through the old town was also a perfect was to spend an afternoon. Climbing to the top of the bell tower provided perfect panoramic views of the city and harbour below but was seriously challenging, especially if you're not comfortable with heights, thanks to the combination of the ancient, slippery stone steps and the new rickety metal ladders that shock with every step we took.

With the abundance of other holidaying Aussies, curious kittens and crystal clear water, there was something about Split that felt comfortingly like home, while still being completely different to anywhere I've ever been before, making leaving just as hard as I'd thought it would be.

Barcelona

Barcelona is definitely best enjoyed with friends, and that's exactly what we did. This incredible city absolutely bursts with life but still hides away little pockets of peacefulness with its maze of lane ways which are perfect for getting lost in when you want to escape the heat and hordes of tourists.

Barcelona's nightlife is legendary, and while the crazy night we spent at the beachfront mega clubs was awesome, it was the tiny bars and restaurants where far too much sangria and tapas were consumed that was the highlight for me. We found ourselves in the backstreets of a little area called Born, which is amazing for shopping during the day, and where drinks were cheap, delicious and occasionally even on fire by night.

As you wander down the main tourist strip know as La Rambla, make sure to stop at the famous La Boqueria food markets for a fantastic assault on the senses. As I pushed my way through the crowds of both locals and tourists, I just wanted to touch everything and had to fight hard to resist the urge to stick my hands deep into the giant vats of seeds and nuts letting a handful trickle back through my fingers Amelié style.
The mix of warm bread and buttery pastries, rich dried meats and salty seafood buried in mountains of ice, meant that there was always an incredible smell to follow as we wound through the tiny aisles.

Countless stalls showed off a rainbow array of fruit and veggies in perfect piles and freshly squeezed juices in every flavour combination you can think of, although Ella's recommendation of strawberry and lime was definitely the winner.

The city really has something for everyone, whether it's wandering through the harbour side area of Barceloneta and sipping iced tea on it's packed beach, admiring the epic Sagrada Família church and the other surreal works of Gaudí which litter the city, or even taking a day trip to the serene seaside town of Sitges, I'm yet to meet someone who hasn't been blown away by this crazy beautiful city.

Madrid

Before arriving in Madrid, my stereotype of Spain was vibrantly full of colour and bursting with life, and it was a stereotype that proved to be completely true, we just had to wait for it to get a little dark first.

As a chronic napper back home, I was actually excited for the famed Spanish tradition of siesta, but even I was shocked by how seriously it was taken. We thought we were doing well by waiting until 10ish to finally eat, but it wasn't until midnight that most of the locals seemed to be sitting down to dinner.

We spent the quiet days exploring the city's impressive art galleries and lying in the shade of the oasis-like gardens and parks to escape the blistering heat.

We chose one of the many free walking tours on the first day which was a fantastic way to get our bearings on what seemed to be an endlessly confusing city and pack in many of the impressive historical sights. However the majority of my highlights in Madrid, as in most of my life, were centered around food. Tapas and churros were obviously abundant, as were the little delis where we joined the locals standing at the bar, sampling the deliciously simple staple of cold cut meats and cheese in shiny bocadillo rolls.

Come nightfall the city suddenly snapped to life, and streets that had been dead quite at 4 pm were bursting with life by 4 am, not only with those drinking and dancing but with friends picnicking in the park and families wandering along with young children skipping through the streets and babies giggling in strollers.

While Barcelona was probably the more memorable city, Madrid had an ease to it that immediately made me feel at home and was a brilliant introduction to what are hopefully many more Spanish adventures.

Moscow

After the glitz of St Petersburg, arriving in Moscow gave us a glimpse of what was perhaps a grittier side of Russia, but a side that I absolutely adored. We had been warned that Moscow would be unpleasantly dirty and challenging but what I found was a much more honnest and intriguing facet to this seemingly endless country.

Once again the language barrier was significant but we more than managed and when you get down to it, it's amazing how far a basic phrase book, some serious charades and a smile can go. While the tourist attractions were well worth the time, what I loved the most was the hours spent wandering the back streets, exploring quirky little neighbourhoods and stumbling across street art, pop up exhibitions and forgotten monasteries. Russia's communist past was also far more obvious here with hammer and sickle symbols popping up everywhere we looked.

The city itself is completely inspiring but completely crazy. Cars weave through roads the width of five lane highways with absolutely no lines or road markings, while the skyline is dominated by beautifully intricate domed cathedrals and churches which I just couldn't take my eyes off.

It was amazing to see the kinds of people that an epic city like Moscow attracts. While we were from every corner of the earth, we had all be attracted to the sense of mystery and harsh honesty it seemed to exude and even while feeling the wrath of a serious night of Russian vodka, I still couldn't get enough of this truly incredible city.

How to survive the Moscow metro

I have decided that if I can survive the Moscow metro, I can survive anything. Being thrown into the endless sea of people all pushing and squeezing past as we tried to navigate our way with ridiculously large luggage during the hight of rush hour was a serious achievement.

The crazy metro system of Moscow is famed and for good reason, the stations themselves are works of art, decked out in everything from floor to ceiling marble to stained glass and mosaic murals. It feels like an entire other city buried deep under ground and to get to many of the tracks you have to ride one of the endless, wooden escalators which can take several minutes and go up to 100 meters below the ground. Once at the platform, trains speed past every 30 seconds (and yet we still saw people sprinting to make each one, as if that extra half a minute was the time between life and death) and the train doors shut sporadically and with no warning, which resulted in one instance where I managed to squeeze on, before the doors promptly closed in Sam's face, producing a moment of pure panic, and I'm sure a priceless shocked face on my behalf, before the realisation that we would simply meet at the next station set in.

Other hazards to watch out for includes buying tickets. We had no idea how the system worked which resulted in frustrated ticket officers yelling the same phrases at us getting louder and adding angrier hand gestures each time, which seemed who be a common Russian way of trying to explain things.

To avoid this bewilderingly scary experience, know that all journeys are the same price regardless of direction or distance. Once you finally make your way through the snaking queue to the ticket both, you simply need to indicate how many rides you want. Don't expect anyone to speak English, holding up the appropriate amount of fingers is enough followed by a 'spasiba' so you don't seem completely rude and incompetent.

It also pays to know the name of your desired and current stops in Cyrillic as almost none of the maps or station lines are in the English and the letters look so completely different it's pretty much impossible to guess, counting the number of stops was our main survival technique. At least pretend you know what you're doing and try to move with confidence as in the push of the 7 million people who take the metro every day, it's easy to get stuck in the middle of an impenetrable crowd going the opposite direction.

Of course outside of peak hour is not quite as crazy but I would still definitely rate the Moscow metro experience as more hilarious than traumatic, at least with a little hindsight!

The Red Arrow Train

For me, one of the biggest drawing cards for Russia was its rich and enigmatic history. I love the idea of diving into a culture that has such a vivid past which is still apparent in its present, so when I found out about The Red Arrow train, I just couldn't resist.

The train provides an overnight service between St. Petersburg and Moscow and is the oldest in Russia, earning it the title of train number one on all tickets and departure boards (number two does the reverse trip nightly as well).

Known as 'Krasnya Strela' in Russian it has run daily since its inception in 1931, only pausing between 1941 and 1943 during the Seige of Leningrad.

In Soviet times, The Red Arrow carried the Communist Party elite between the country's two main cities and this historic feel is still very obvious, from the red and gold colour scheme, to the hammer and sickle emblems stamped into the cast metal cups that sat next to the little vase of flowers on our table.

The experience is even topped off with the train's own imperialistic sounding theme song that plays proudly as it pulls away from the platform just before midnight.

As we were in second class we were joined by two other passengers, and while like most of the Russians we encountered neither spoke much English, both were polite and friendly, and clearly pros at taking down the cabin's folding bunk beds.

We awoke to a little packed breakfast of bread rolls, cheese and salami, but if it hadn't been for the wale up call I could have happily stayed snuggled in my little bed enjoying the lulling rock of the train for hours more.

Would I recommend The Red Arrow train? If you're into the history and want a bit of an experience, absolutely. Yes it was a bit kitsch but I love kitsch and while there are plenty of night trains that do the same route for a slightly lesser fee, for me the history geek out moment it provided was priceless.

St. Petersburg

Armed with a basic phrase book and high expectations, we hit St. Petersburg bursting with intrigue and while I was far from disappointed, the city definitely presented some serious challenges.

From the huge, gold plated buildings that line the main streets and fairy tale cathedrals that burst with colour, to the men who almost all seemed to be in uniform and the majority of women who tottered around in sky high heels dressed in head to toe designer labels, everything about St. Petersburg seemed to scream excessive extravagance.

We ate macaroons the size of our palms dusted with gold leaf, and survived potent vodka shots in glasses double the normal Australian size, but beneath all the decadence we couldn't help but feel that there was a more gritty and realistic underside of St. Petersburg that was being hidden.

It was a city where you were very obviously either a tourist or a local, and while I always felt surprisingly safe wandering through the streets, it was much harder to uncover the little gems off the tourist track that other cities had delivered.

However in a city where the tourist attractions really are so spectacular, I was more than content to spend a few days touring through the canals and being in awe of the rich history that the city is built on. We did manage to stumble upon an awesome little restaurant around the corner from our hostel called Zoom (find it at 22 Gorohovaya Street) that provided by far the best meal of all our time in Russia. With walls filled with art and postcards, and a range of both traditional Russian and other European food, it was clearly a popular option as we had to wait about 20 minutes to get a table, but the delicious food and seriously affordable price made it well worth the wait.

Russia had always been an absolute dream destination of mine and St. Petersburg definitely lived up to my hype but next time I will definitely be visiting with a local to try an scrape more than just it's beautifully embellished surface.

Helsinki

Proudly claiming its title of World Design Capital this year, Helsinki was definitely out on show during our visit.

We were blessed with beautiful weather which made for perfect conditions to explore the city's many marketplaces. The harbour-side fresh fruit and veggie stalls of Kauppatori was an ideal place to stop for lunch, with a colourful array of food sizzling on giant grills. Here I tried the local speciality muikku (tiny vendace fish battered and fried whole) served with crispy potatoes and a generous helping of delicious garlic mayonnaise. I quickly learnt that this was a favourite among ALL the locals, as before I had even sat down to take my first bite, I was swooped by a far too brave seagull who flew away with an entire greedy mouthful. Egged on by their friend's success I was repeatedly dive bombed, giving the crowds a good laugh as I tried to duck and dodge the oncoming attacks in a state of panic and paranoia, until a local woman pushed me in the direction of a nearby tent dramatically yelling 'RUN! RUN FOR COVER!' after me.

Other markets like the Hakaniemi Market Hall, provided a much more calm experience but were still fascinating, showcasing everything from piles of antique spoons and vases, to various paraphernalia from the 1952 Olympics, an obsession the city seems to be reluctant to let go of. This was also a great place to begin exploring the design centric Kallio District. Here we found cute cafes on every corner and a range of shops whose products were as quirky and interestingly designed as the buildings that housed them.

When we ventured back that night, the streets were alive with little bars and people enjoying late night picnics and drinks in the park. Eventually we stumbled upon 'Siltanen' which was a perfect place for a drink on the deck before heading inside for a night of hilarious Scandinavian dancing.

From its melting pot culture that bridges Scandinavia with the Baltic countries, to its obsession with Angry Birds (whose creator is Finnish and somewhat of a national celebrity), Helsinki is full of pleasant surprises and was a great launch pad to the next leg of our journey into Russia!

Stockholm I love you

It is a true testament to a city that it can be raining and grey for almost the entire time we were there, and for me to still fall completely in love with it.

When we arrived in Stockholm we were greeted by a huge sign welcoming us to "The capital of Scandinavia" and even in the few days we spent there, it absolutely managed to live up to this title.

Although we arrived fairly late in the evening, the never ending summer days of Scandinavia once again played in our favour as we explored the beautiful Old Town (Gamla Stan in Swedish), ice cream in hand, winding our way through narrow streets and admiring the ancient, earthy colored buildings.

The next morning we awoke to a depressing downpour of rain but undeterred we set out to the super cool district of Södermalm, also affectionately known as 'SoFo'. This was a perfect way to spend a rainy day as we darted in and out of endless vintage shops, quirky boutiques and design stores filled with Scandinavian sensibility, and cosy cafes for more delicious pastries.

While Sweden can be an expensive country, I found it considerably cheaper than neighboring Norway, and even managed to find a bargain on a beautiful dress designed and made Stockholm which I will always cherish as my own little piece of Sweden's legendary sense of style.

We ended the day in search of the quintessential Swedish meatballs. Upon the recommendation of new friend Mercury who we met in Denmark, we headed to 'Bakfickan' and were not disappointed. With seats situated around a central bar and walls lined with photos of old school movie stars, it felt so cosy and relaxed that you'd almost never know it shares a kitchen with next door's Michelin star restaurant, 'Operakällaren'. That is until the food came out. After living on a backpacker's budget and way too much pasta, the melt-in-your-mouth meatballs, served with creamy mash potato and the traditional garnish of lingonberry jam, was absolutely one of the best things I have ever eaten.

If you are ever in Stockholm I highly recommend this place. You get a more relaxed, but still amazingly delicious, version of the food at its big brother restaurant in the Opera House bar but at a fraction of the cost.

The next morning saw our culinary successes continue as we decided to stop for breakfast at a little cafe called 'Muffin Bakery' which was appropriately filled with muffins in every flavour combination you could think of. While Sam choose a yummy but healthy option of pear and raspberry, I decided upon the cashiers recommendation of 'chocolate brownie cheesecake'. They came out still warm and with a massive spoon poking out of the top, which was a good thing as once I broke through the crispy top I was left with a heavenly, just cooked, molten batter.

If you've ever had my Nutella brownies imagine adding fresh out of the oven cheese cake to that mix and that's what it was like. Only more amazing.

The rest of the day was spent trying to stay out of the rain and exploring the sights of Stockholm, including its many grand palaces along the rivers edge and the very cool Moderna Museet which was full of interesting and international modern art.

When we ventured back outside we found that the rain was taking a short break so we decided to seize the moment and run up to a bar we'd seen the day before on the edge of SoFo. Although the stairs up to 'Mosebacke' are steep, the climb is definitely worth it for the perfect panorama views it's outdoor terrace delivers of the city below.

As we grabbed a Swedish cider and took a seat, the sun made a miraculous appearance and the surrounding tables were quickly filled with a range of Stockholm locals all enjoying the brief moment of good weather.

All in all Stockholm was an unforgettable stop on our trip through Scandinavia, meeting and exceeding all my expectations from the innovative design scene to its super cool people.

Definitely another place that I will be coming back to, hopefully in the not so distant future!

Highlights of Norway

After a ferry mishap left us slightly off schedule, we found ourselves exploring more of Norway than we had originally planned. For the most part this was an unexpected bonus especially when it came to our pit stop in Norway's self titled number one holiday destination, Kristiansands.

This charming seaside town had an infectiously laid back feel to it. We wandered through markets and ate ice cream in the sun as we joined the locals lying in the park by the waters edge. While Kristiansands wasn't on our original itinerary, it definitely should be for anyone heading to Norway, particularly in the summer as it's easy to see how you could come for a weeks holiday and end up staying forever.

Next on our journey was the harbor town of Bergen. Our train arrived just as the sun rose which was a perfect time to explore the creaky, narrow passageways between the UNESCO protected wooden houses along the wharf, before the hordes of tourists descended on the town.

The fish markets are an absolute must, full of local and unique produce and the occasional souvenir stand. As the day went on I sampled some surprisingly tasty fresh whale (served mostly raw, tuna sashimi style) and a delicious lunch of calamari and chips.

That afternoon we said goodbye to Bergen and its tiny houses nestled in the surrounding wall of mountains and headed to the country's capital, Oslo. Here we met another group of amazing people and spent time at famed sights like the waterfront Opera House and Nobel Prize Center, but to be honest after the stunning natural beauty of the rest of the country, I was left slightly underwhelmed.

While there's certainly stuff to do in Oslo, compared to other Scandinavian capitals like Copenhagen and Stockholm, it struggles to stand out. History buffs and families with young children will love the city's many extensive and interactive museums and Frogner Park is a lovely way to spend an afternoon if you're into statues and/or nudity, but the CBD feeling of the central city and the strict minimum cut off age of 23 for all bars and clubs meant that our weekend in Oslo fell slightly flat.

I definitely enjoyed Norway and would love to come back one day to explore further, but maybe next time with a larger budget and a different itinerary.

Bergen to Oslo train

When we booked tickets for Norway's famous Bergen to Oslo train trip we were told it would be a 'scenic adventure' so I was expecting something pretty beautiful. What I wasn't expecting is that beautiful didn't even begin to cover it.

Breathtaking is truly an understatement as this eight hour ride through the heart of the country's wilderness, from the costal fishing town of Bergen to the bustling capital of Oslo, left me with my face pressed up against the window and my mouth permanently open is awe.

We steamed through endless forests with gushing waterfalls and epic glacier fields covered in snow, passing scenes I thought only existed on postcards.

I loved the red, wooden houses with moss covered roofs, perched on cliff tops, and couldn't wipe the smile off my face as we passed through valleys where only the ripples from a little fleet of ducklings hurrying through crystal clear lake disturbed the mirror perfect reflection of the mountains above.

Half way through the trip we were joined by a cheery, middle age, French tour group, armed with cameras and as much awe and excitement as me, evident through the gasps of "Oh loh lah! La neige! C'est beau!" and "Vite! Dépêche-toi!" as they all hurried to snap the perfect shot of the endless glaciers before our view was once again hidden by the tunnels we took through the mountain base.

I took hundreds of pictures myself which I will post ASAP but here's a little sneak peak till then!

Dancing in the rain in Copenhagen

While Copenhagen was only one of our first stops, it has already cemented it's place as one of my favourites. One of our new Canadian friends from the hostel described it perfectly when he said that the city was the most pleasant place on earth.

From the beautiful pastel coloured buildings and their matching, white, dollhouse shutters, to the unbelievable friendly people who are some of the happiest and most polite I've ever met, you can help but smile as you walk around the streets of this immaculate city.

We were only there for a few days but the weather was perfect and we managed to pack a lot into our stay. The epic climb to the top of Vor Frelsers Kirke steeple was definitely worth the toll it took on our calves the next day, especially when the steps began to spiral around the outside of the tower, giving us a perfect panorama of the city.

We took a beautiful boat tour through the canals and spent afternoons lying by the lake in Christiania, a hippy community and free-for-all village that has been set up in the heart of the city.

But for me one of the best parts of our stay was definitely the friends made along the way. While the hostel was definitely a shock to the system at first with its 66 bed dorms, we soon formed a big international group where strange sayings were swapped and and a ridiculous amount of spaghetti bolognese was cooked.

However it was the last night that will stay with me as truly the highlight of my Copenhagen adventures. The afternoon of our last day saw us sitting outside as a group of Swedish guys played guitar and hilarious cover songs of anything we could think of. We quickly drew a crowd and continued on into the night chatting and dancing until the sun disappeared and was replaced with a sudden downpour of rain. But instead of giving up and heading off to bed I found myself swept up in a crowd of people from all corners of the world as we ran through the city center still dancing and singing at the top of our lungs.

Safe to say that singing the Eurovision winning 'Euphoria' in the torrential rain in Copenhagen square with a bunch of complete strangers is not a memory I'll be forgetting anytime soon.

Brick Lane

With the jet-lag still strong and the overwhelming possibility of an entire new city to explore, Sam and I found ourselves spending our first day in London exploring the East End.

We headed towards Brick Lane and discovered an eccentric mix of people, shops and hidden laneways. The top end of the street reflected the area's strong Bangladeshi culture as we passed hundreds of restaurants each with a banner bigger than the next claiming awards for the best curry in Brick Lane/Britain/The World. If this and the heads popping out of every door promising special deals just for us wasn't enough to entice us inside, the overwhelming smell of spices and fresh garlic naan definitely was.

We wandered a little further and soon found ourselves in the middle of a bizarre culture clash in what can only be described as hipster heaven. The vintage shops that sat on every corner were filled with treasures that I could have blown my entire budget on, 50's floral skirts with layers of tulle, silk scarves from every city in the world and entire rooms filled with a sea of denim jackets.

I have found my new home

Back outside the tiny alleyways began to feel more like art galleries than dead ends with amazing street art and murals plastered across every wall. Everywhere we looked there was something weird and wonderful going on and while I've taken hundred's of photos in this last week, I'm currently traveling without my laptop so the few iphone photos that I have taken/stolen from Sam will have to do till I get back to London.

We ended the afternoon with a stop off in a cool little bar, drinking cider and still trying to comprehend the fact that this was all actually happening! If you're looking for something away from the crowds and a little off the beaten track then Brick Lane is for you. Probably not the most tourist friendly place but definitely one of London's hidden gems.

For a extra little bonus check out Sam's post on incredibly cool vinyl record store 'Rough Trade'!